Wales Tourism and Visit Planning

BERMUDA: Traditional Luxury

Author: Jessica Chapman
YOUR MISSION: Mix history with tasteful hedonism. Bermuda lays claim to beautiful beaches, fascinating historic attractions, great golf (the most courses per square mile in the world), diving and snorkeling, superb dining and can't-miss duty-free shopping (visitors can take home US$400 in duty-free goods).

DAY ONE: Get an early start by grabbing a taxi or one of the island's famous pink buses and heading to St. George's. Get an eyeful of Bermuda's rich past, including St. Peter's Church, the Western Hemisphere's oldest Anglican church still in use. Make time for Gate's Fort, built in 1609 and named after Sir Thomas Gate, the governor-designate of Virgina; the Old State House, Bermuda's oldest stone house, dates to 1620; and don't bypass the colorful "public punishment" re-enactments in King's Square, hosted by the town crier.

To help you fuel up for an afternoon of bargain hunting, hit the Carriage House, a waterfront restaurant housed in an 18th-century brick building (choose from salads, sandwiches and burgers). Next head to Hamilton for some serious shopping. Great duty-free buys can be had along Front Street - from jewelry and crystal to liquor and linens. And don't forget to pick up a pair of Bermuda shorts from Trimingham's department store on Front and Reid streets. Sneak in another historical trip at the post office on the corner of Parliament and Church streets, a working relic that sends you back to Bermuda's early days.

DAY TWO: Duffers can hit the greens at one of the island's eight golf courses (make tee times by calling 441-234-GOLF). Nongolfers should cruise the island a la Bermuda's famed scooters after, of course, starting the day with a traditional Bermuda breakfast of boiled cod at Reid's Restaurant. Don't miss the botanical gardens or the Bermuda Aquarium, Museum and Zoo in Hamilton Parish. Spend the afternoon snorkeling in clear, fish-filled water (try Church Bay, John Smith's Bay or Tobacco Bay) and beaching (Elbow Beach, Horseshoe Bay and Jobson's Cove are all picture-perfect).

BIG NIGHT OUT: Hamilton is a hot spot for nightlife. Start out with a romantic carriage ride and then make your way to La Coquille, a waterfront French restaurant offering everything from local dishes to seafood. Burn off some calories by dancing at any pub along Front Street or at Hubie's Bar on Angle Street. Close the bar at The Oasis, where you can dance to club music or jam to a live band until 3 a.m.

WHERE TO STAY: For big luxury in Bermuda, opt for the Fairmont Southampton Princess (US$219-$2,792 per night). Perched on the island's highest point, the Princess offers tennis, golf, indoor and outdoor pools, a fitness center, spa, beauty salon and eight restaurants and bars. Each room and suite features a coastal or golf-course view. For less expensive digs, try the waterside Salt Kettle House with four cottages and five rooms in the main house (US$45-$60, rooms; US$90-$100, suites; includes breakfast).

WHAT TO AVOID: Hamilton's rush-hour traffic: Monday through Friday, 8:30 a.m. to 9 a.m. and from 5 p.m. to 6 p.m. Most banks are packed on Fridays and before public holidays, ATMs only distribute Bermuda dollars and buses only accepts coins.

E.T.A. FROM AIRPORT: Bermuda is easily accessible from many major cities, thanks to major carrier service, plus it's a relatively short flight - about two hours from New York and three from Atlanta. The Southampton Princess is about 40 minutes from the airport (plenty of other hotels are closer); Hamilton is a 20-minute drive.

Jessica Chapman visited Bermuda in May 2000.

Posted online 12/01/00.

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